Monday, March 10, 2014

Kayaking in Antarctica

Kayaking in Antarctica in fine weather can be dreamily beautiful....


One can chase towards miraculous mountains looming in the distance....


Or investigate fanstical icebergs...

Old ice is intensely blue....


Other ice is reminiscent of Lawren Harris paintings...


Then there are days that are not so fine....



when only the brave (or masochistic) venture on the water



to paddle through brash ice


and along the edge of the ice pack







Wednesday, February 12, 2014

ELEPHANT SEAL ROLLS (SAUSAGE, NOT GREENLAND)

On my recent sailing and kayaking trip to the Antarctic Peninsula, I spent some time observing elephant seals......

A mound of resting elephant seals is rather like an untidy row of almost-full (but well re-sealed) milk bags - all  joggles and wiggles.  With any movement, undulating waves propagate through the blubber. 


Now imagine that the enormous seal at the end  - for some reason that does not seem to stem from  an attack of sexual urgency (perhaps it is a mound of young males?) – decides to move to the middle of the mound-group.  


Snorting and wiggling, he “huffulates” around the bottom of the pile, swims his thousand-pound bulk onto the top, and sink-wiggles his self between  two of the bodies underneath him.



The whole pile snorts and groans and wriggles and writhes to make room until stasis is once again attained.   




Elephant seals probably attain some grace when they are in the water, swimming. But the mental image of these untidy bags of blubber chasing  dinner only provokes titters of disbelief!